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PART 02 / CHAPTER 09

Weather

Read the synoptic picture behind the forecast, then combine wind, swell, tide and local effects.

The craft / Chapter 09

Read the synoptic picture behind the forecast, then combine wind, swell, tide and local effects.

Compiled September 2026 · Indicative only · Verify current requirements

Southern Hemisphere weather runs the other way round, and Australia produces a handful of systems found nowhere else. Learning to read a synoptic chart is the difference between using a forecast and merely obeying one.

Reading a mean sea level pressure chart

Isobars are lines of equal pressure, drawn at four-hectopascal intervals on Bureau charts. Tightly packed isobars mean strong wind; widely spaced isobars mean light wind. That single relationship is the most useful thing on the chart.

South of the equator the circulation reverses from what northern textbooks describe. Around a high, the wind blows anticlockwise and outward. Around a low, it blows clockwise and inward. Buys Ballot's law in the Southern Hemisphere: stand with your back to the wind and the low is on your left.

Cold fronts — the blue line with triangles — mark cold dense air undercutting warm air, and bring an abrupt wind shift, a temperature drop and often a squall line. In Australia the wind ahead of a front is typically northerly or north-westerly, swinging south-west to south behind it. Troughs, drawn as dashed lines with no frontal symbols, carry no marked temperature contrast but still deliver wind shifts and thunderstorm lines, and they matter here more than in most places.

The subtropical ridge

A belt of high pressure sitting roughly between 22° and 35°S, the descending branch of the Hadley circulation. It migrates, and its position explains most of the Australian seasonal pattern.

  • Winter (May–October): the ridge shifts north, over the continent. Cold fronts and the Southern Ocean westerly belt can then reach as far north as southern Queensland. More frontal passages, more westerly gales in the south.
  • Summer (November–April): the ridge shifts south, over the Southern Ocean. Fronts are blocked from the mainland, and the monsoon trough and trade winds dominate the north while persistent easterlies and sea breezes dominate the east.

The systems a skipper must know

NSW & SOUTHERN QLD

East Coast Lows

Intense lows that develop in the Tasman close to the coast, several times a year, most often in autumn and winter with a June peak. Their danger is that they can deepen explosively overnight. Expect gale to storm force winds, mean wave heights of 4–6 m with maxima around 10 m, and rainfall measured in hundreds of millimetres. Historic gusts include 165 km/h at Newcastle in 1974. The Bureau itself flags that position and central intensity are hard to pin down — treat an ECL forecast as carrying more uncertainty and shorter useful lead time than a normal front, and do not plan a passage on its fringe.

NSW COAST, OCT–FEB

The southerly buster

Not simply a front: a coastally trapped density current. A cold front crosses south-east Australia, the Great Dividing Range blocks its inland portion while the seaward part runs on, and the resulting wedge of cool dense air is channelled north along the coast and accelerated. It arrives as an abrupt squall after several hot days, typically late afternoon. By definition it gusts over 29 knots with a temperature drop of 5°C or more within three hours; strong ones gust 40 knots or more, and Sydney Airport once recorded 61. Sydney averages about five a season. The visual cue is a black line on the southern horizon on a hot northerly afternoon.

NORTHERN AUSTRALIA, NOV–APR

Tropical cyclones

Australia uses its own five-category scale based on 10-minute mean wind, which is why an Australian Category 3 is not the same animal as a Saffir-Simpson Category 3. Category 1 is 63–88 km/h; Category 2, 89–117; Category 3 (severe), 118–159; Category 4, 160–199; Category 5, above 200 km/h, with gusts far higher again. The season runs November to April. A Tropical Cyclone Watch is issued when gales are expected to begin within 24 to 48 hours; a Warning when within 24 hours or already occurring. Systems forming in the northern basin — the Gulf and Arafura approaches — make landfall about 80% of the time.

SOUTHERN WATERS, YEAR-ROUND

The westerly belt and Bass Strait

The Roaring Forties are driven by the pressure gradient between the subtropical high belt and the Antarctic trough, with almost no land to interrupt the flow. Successive fronts often arrive only two to four days apart in winter. Bass Strait is the problem child: mostly 50–70 m deep, so a Southern Ocean swell running into it shortens and steepens, and when it meets an opposing tidal stream it breaks. The open-ocean wind and wave figures in a forecast consistently understate what the Strait will actually feel like.

Sea breezes

Land heats faster than water. Rising air over the land creates a shallow surface low, cooler marine air flows in to replace it, and the breeze builds through the afternoon before dying at dusk. Australia's are strong, reliable and named. The Fremantle Doctor is a south-westerly reaching 15–20 knots near the WA coast, strongest in December and January — predictable enough that local practice is to be home before it fills. Brisbane has its winter Ekka winds. Adelaide has the gully winds, evening south-easterlies accelerating down the western slopes of the Mount Lofty Ranges, which arrive suddenly and gust well above the ambient breeze.

BUREAU MARINE WARNING THRESHOLDS — 10-MINUTE MEAN WIND
WARNINGMEAN WINDBEAUFORT
Strong Wind Warning26–33 knForce 6–7
Gale Warning34–47 knForce 8–9
Storm Force Wind Warning48–63 knForce 10–11
Hurricane Force Wind Warning64 kn and aboveForce 12
CAUTION — THE TWO NUMBERS THE FORECAST DOES NOT SHOUT

Bureau marine forecasts quote a ten-minute mean wind and a significant wave height. Gusts run roughly 40% above the mean, so a forecast of 25 knots means gusts to 35. And significant wave height is the average of the highest third of waves — the maximum wave can be twice that figure, statistically about one wave in 3,000, which in a persistent sea is around three times a day. Plan for the gust and the big one, not the headline.

Sea, swell and combined height

The Bureau forecasts sea (waves raised by the local wind now, short period) and swell (waves that have travelled from a distant system, long period) separately, each to the nearest half metre. They do not simply add. Combined height is the root of the sum of the squares: a 1.5 m sea with a 1.5 m swell gives about 2.1 m combined, not 3.0. The two can also come from different directions, which is what produces a confused, uncomfortable sea in otherwise modest numbers.

The currents

The East Australian Current flows south along the Queensland and NSW coast, carrying warm Coral Sea water toward Tasmania, with a core that can reach 2 m/s — nearly 4 knots. It is not a uniform river but a system of large eddies. Sailing south, finding the core near the shelf edge is free speed; sailing north, staying inshore of it in the counter-flow is usually faster. Critically: when a southerly buster or a front blows against the south-setting EAC, the sea goes short, steep and breaking within an hour. That combination is the classic east-coast hazard, independent of any low. On the other side of the continent the Leeuwin Current also flows south, at a gentler half a metre per second or so.

Weather and the tide together

Predicted tide heights assume standard pressure and no wind. Three things break that. Strong onshore wind physically piles water against the coast — wind setup. Low atmospheric pressure lets the sea surface rise by roughly a centimetre per hectopascal below the mean — the inverted barometer effect. And storm-generated long waves travel with the system. Together they produce a storm surge on top of the predicted tide; the worst case is a surge coinciding with a spring high. The inverse also happens: a strong high with offshore wind gives a negative surge and less water than the tables promise, which is how deep-draught vessels find bottom in a charted channel.

The forecast routine

The day before: look at the synoptic chart and the forecast charts first, to understand why the forecast says what it says — where the high is, what front is next and how fast it moves. Then the Coastal Waters Forecast for your zone (it covers out to 60 nm), or the High Seas Forecast if you are going further. Then MetEye to drill into specific points and times along the route. Note every current and expected warning.

The morning of: re-read the latest Coastal Waters issue and any new warnings — East Coast Lows in particular can change overnight. Re-check MetEye for a shift in the timing of a front. Then look at the sky and the barometer and see whether they agree with the forecast. A falling barometer that the forecast did not predict is the cue to stay in.

And remember what a forecast is not. The Coastal Waters Forecast describes open water clear of the coast. It does not describe the acceleration around a headland, the katabatic gust draining off high ground into your anchorage at three in the morning, the sea breeze reinforcing or cancelling the gradient wind near the shore, or the fetch-limited chop inside a bay. Those are local knowledge, and they are why sailing somewhere new deserves more caution than the numbers suggest.

Keep in mind
Tightly packed isobars indicate stronger wind. A forecast is a decision tool, not a substitute for observation.
Based on the original Australian Skipper Pathway course artifact. This site has not independently verified every claim.View the source guide ↗